That cypress floor discovery sounds like a dream, but yeah, the hidden rot is the real beach house rite of passage. I’ve had to replace entire beams before just because salt air and a little neglect turned them to dust. I do think 25% is smart, maybe even more if you’re aiming for high-end finishes or dealing with a lot of unknowns. One thing I’ve learned: if you see even a hint of rust or musty odor, just assume there’s more lurking behind the walls. But man, once you get through it and those old bones are solid again, there’s nothing like it.
I hear you on the hidden rot. Last place I worked on, what looked like a minor patch of water damage turned into a full-on “replace half the subfloor” situation. Salt air just eats everything, and you never really know until you start pulling things apart. I’d say 25% is a decent buffer, but honestly, I usually tack on another 10-15% just for the stuff you can’t see. The peace of mind when it’s all done is worth every headache, though.
Funny how it always looks like “just a little patch” until you start demo, right? I get what you’re saying about the buffer—25% is solid, but I’ve been burned even with that. Ever try using borate treatments or any specific subfloor materials to slow down the salt damage, or is it just a losing battle near the coast?
Ever try using borate treatments or any specific subfloor materials to slow down the salt damage, or is it just a losing battle near the coast?
I wouldn’t call it a losing battle, but I do think the “right” materials only get you so far. I’ve experimented with borate treatments and marine-grade plywood, and while they help, nothing’s truly impervious to coastal conditions. The salt air finds its way in, no matter how careful you are with sealing and flashing.
One thing I’d push back on is the idea that a 25% buffer is always enough. In my experience with older homes, especially near the water, hidden issues multiply fast—think rot in places you can’t see until you’re knee-deep in demo. I’ve had projects where even a 40% contingency felt tight.
If you’re dealing with a historic structure, sometimes it’s less about “winning” against the elements and more about slowing the inevitable. Regular maintenance and accepting some ongoing repair costs might be more realistic than expecting any one material or treatment to solve it for good.
Yeah, I hear you on the salt air—no matter what you do, it sneaks in. I’ve had better luck focusing on ventilation and using recycled composite materials where possible. They’re not totally immune, but they hold up longer and are less toxic than some treatments. Maintenance is just part of the deal, but I try to make it as eco-friendly as possible. Sometimes you just have to accept a little imperfection if you want to keep things sustainable.
