EARTHQUAKE-PROOFED MY FIRST BUILDING AND IT ACTUALLY WORKED
- Totally agree on the “easy fix” kits—those things drive me up the wall. I’ve seen too many people slap up a few plastic anchors and call it a day, then wonder why their art collection’s in pieces after a tremor.
- I’m all about using metal brackets and tying into studs, but here’s where I sometimes butt heads with contractors: I want to keep the aesthetic clean, especially in open shelving or when we’re working with exposed beams. There’s always this push-pull between function and form. Sometimes I’ll design custom millwork that hides the hardware but still gives you that seismic strength. It’s not always cheap, but honestly, neither is replacing everything after a quake.
- I’ve had clients balk at the price of reinforced cabinetry or anchored built-ins too. But every time there’s even a minor shake, they’re texting me photos of their stuff still standing. Peace of mind is hard to put a price on.
- One thing I notice—people forget about the small stuff. Decorative objects, vases, even books can become projectiles. I’ve started using museum putty for anything valuable or sentimental. It’s not perfect, but it’s saved a few sculptures from disaster.
- Here’s my question: has anyone found a good way to earthquake-proof floating shelves without making them look like industrial scaffolding? I’ve tried recessed steel brackets and even hidden rods, but sometimes it still feels like a compromise. Curious what others have come up with, especially if you’re working in older homes where walls aren’t always straight or studs are... let’s say, “creatively placed.”
- I hear you on the floating shelves dilemma—I've wrestled with that in a few flips, especially in those 1920s bungalows where nothing is square. Sometimes I’ll double up on the hidden steel brackets and use a bit of wood filler to mask any gaps, but it’s definitely not perfect. I’ve also tried using French cleats behind the shelf, which helps distribute weight, but you lose a bit of that true “floating” look. Has anyone had luck with those magnetic catch systems to keep things from sliding off during a shake? I’m curious if they actually hold up or if it’s just wishful thinking...
EARTHQUAKE-PROOFED MY FIRST BUILDING AND IT ACTUALLY WORKED
I’ve actually tried those magnetic catch systems on a couple of kitchen shelves, and honestly, they’re kind of hit or miss. The ones I used were strong enough to keep lightweight stuff like spice jars in place, but anything heavier would still slide around if you gave the wall a good shake. Maybe there are industrial-strength versions out there, but I haven’t found one that really gives me peace of mind for anything breakable or valuable.
Funny thing about those old bungalows—nothing is ever level, right? I’ve had to shim so many brackets just to get shelves to look halfway decent. Sometimes I wonder if it’s worth the hassle, but then again, floating shelves just look so much cleaner than bulky brackets. I’ve also tried using a combo of dowels and construction adhesive for extra support, but that’s more of a “set it and forget it” solution since you’re not getting those shelves off without some damage.
Curious if anyone’s tried those earthquake putty things? I saw them at the hardware store and almost grabbed a pack, but wasn’t sure if they’d leave residue or just end up being a pain to clean off later. Also, has anyone experimented with flexible shelf liners or mats to help absorb some shock? I’ve seen them in RV setups, but not sure how well they’d translate to a house.
It’s always a balancing act between keeping things looking sleek and making sure they don’t turn into projectiles during a quake. Has anyone found a way to keep the floating look but still have real security for heavier items?
Curious if anyone’s tried those earthquake putty things? I saw them at the hardware store and almost grabbed a pack, but wasn’t sure if they’d leave residue or just end up being a pain to clean off later.
Tried the putty on my grandma’s china hutch—honestly, it worked better than I expected. No residue on glass or wood, but it did get a little gunky after a year. For heavier stuff, I’ve had luck with hidden L-brackets behind floating shelves. You lose a bit of the “pure float” look, but it’s way sturdier. Flexible shelf liners are great for glassware, but not much help for big vases or books. It’s always a trade-off...
I’ve used the putty on a few picture frames and some knick-knacks, and it’s been decent for the price. I did notice it gets a bit weird if you move stuff around a lot, but nothing a quick wipe didn’t fix. L-brackets are solid, but I’m always looking for ways to avoid drilling into my walls if I can help it... Has anyone tried those museum gel things? Wondering if they’re any better or just more expensive for the same result.
