- Not sure I totally agree about the doors just “settling back” after a month. In my case (1938 bungalow), one of the closet doors never went back to normal after the retrofit—had to actually trim the edge and rehang it. Maybe it depends on how much bracing you add or if the house was already out of square.
- The creaking thing drove me nuts too, but I found that using screws instead of nails for subfloor reattachment made a bigger difference than adhesive. Nails seemed to let things move just enough to squeak, even with glue underneath.
- I’d be careful with construction adhesive in finished spaces—if you ever need to pull up a board for plumbing or wiring, it’s a pain. I learned that the hard way when I had to fix a leaky pipe six months later.
- Honestly, sometimes I wonder if some of these “quirks” are just old houses’ way of telling us we’re not in charge... but yeah, I’ll take a sticky door over tearing up floors any day. Still, I wouldn’t count on everything going back to normal on its own, especially with really old framing.
EARTHQUAKE RETROFIT QUIRKS: DOORS, FLOORS, AND OLD HOUSE PERSONALITY
- Totally get where you’re coming from on the doors. My 1920s craftsman did the same—one bedroom door just never sat right again after all the bracing. Ended up planing it down, which felt a bit like admitting defeat, but at least it closes now.
- Screws over nails for subfloors is a game changer. I thought glue would be enough, but those tiny squeaks drove me nuts until I went back in with screws. Sometimes it’s the little fixes that make all the difference.
- Construction adhesive is a double-edged sword for sure. Used it once in a bathroom reno and regretted it when I had to pull up a tile for a plumbing fix... took half the subfloor with it.
- Old houses really do have minds of their own. I figure as long as nothing’s actively falling apart or letting in rain, a sticky door or two is just part of the charm. And honestly, if your earthquake-proofing held up, you’re already ahead of the game—even if you have to shave a door or listen to a few creaks.
Funny, I swear every time I work on an old place, the doors are the first thing to go weird. Even when I try to brace everything just right, something always ends up sticking or dragging. Planing feels like a cop-out but sometimes it’s just the only way forward.
Totally with you on screws for subfloors. Nails just don’t cut it—especially after a few seasons of expansion and contraction. I’ve even started using those specialty subfloor screws that supposedly won’t back out over time... haven’t had a single squeak yet, so maybe there’s something to it.
That construction adhesive is brutal. Once pulled up some glued-down hardwood and basically had to replace the whole section of subfloor underneath. Guess it does its job too well sometimes.
You mentioned bracing—did you do any foundation bolting or just stick with shear walls? I’ve always wondered if going all-in with both is overkill or just smart insurance. Every house seems to react differently, especially these older ones where nothing is square to begin with. Would love to know how much of your retrofit was DIY versus hiring out, too. Sometimes I think old houses are just testing our patience...
EARTHQUAKE RETROFIT: FOUNDATION BOLTS VS SHEAR WALLS
You nailed it about old houses having a mind of their own. No matter how much you brace or square things up, something always shifts—doors especially. Planing isn’t cheating, it’s just part of the process with these places. Sometimes you just have to pick your battles.
On the retrofit side, I’ve found that combining foundation bolting with shear walls isn’t overkill, especially in seismic zones. Bolts alone help anchor the sill plate, but without shear panels, you’re still relying on old framing to resist lateral movement. I’ve seen houses with just bolts still rack pretty hard in a quake. That said, every structure is different—sometimes you can get away with less if the original framing is beefy enough.
I usually handle the bolting and basic shear wall install myself, but for anything involving structural engineering or tricky load paths, I’ll bring in a pro. It’s not always cheap, but peace of mind counts for something when you’re dealing with 100-year-old lumber and questionable foundations.
And yeah, construction adhesive is both a blessing and a curse... once it’s down, it’s not coming up clean. Learned that one the hard way too.
I get where you’re coming from about doubling up on bolts and shear walls, but I’ve actually had decent luck just focusing on really well-installed shear panels—especially if you can use reclaimed plywood or even cross-laminated timber. Sometimes the old framing is surprisingly stout, and with careful blocking and paneling, you can get a lot of lateral strength without going overboard on hardware. Plus, less metal means less embodied energy, which is a win in my book. Not saying it’s always the answer—just that sometimes the “less is more” approach works out if you’re strategic about materials and layout. And yeah... construction adhesive is like glitter: once it’s there, good luck getting rid of it.
