Glad to hear the insulation and resilient channels worked out for you. I went through something similar a couple years back when we replaced our garage opener. At first, I was convinced the opener itself was the main culprit, so I splurged on one of those belt-driven models that promised whisper-quiet operation. It definitely helped, but I still noticed vibrations traveling through the walls, especially upstairs.
Eventually, I did exactly what you described—added insulation and resilient channels behind regular drywall—and it made a noticeable difference. Like you said, not total silence, but enough improvement that my wife stopped complaining about waking up early whenever I left for work. Honestly, I think a lot of people underestimate how much noise travels through framing and drywall alone. Those resilient channels really do help break up the vibrations.
Did you end up doing anything special around outlets or switches? I found that sealing around electrical boxes with acoustic caulk helped a bit more too. Not a huge difference, but every little bit counts when you're trying to keep things quiet.
Anyway, it's nice to see someone else having success with simpler solutions instead of immediately jumping to expensive specialty products. Sometimes the basics really are enough to get the job done without emptying your wallet...
I had a similar experience when I redid my basement workshop. Initially, I thought upgrading to a belt-driven opener would solve everything, but like you mentioned, vibrations still traveled through the framing. After adding insulation and resilient channels, things improved significantly, but I still noticed some noise around outlets and switches.
What really helped me was using putty pads behind the electrical boxes. They're basically these moldable acoustic pads you wrap around the back of the boxes before drywall goes up. It wasn't a night-and-day difference, but it definitely cut down on those annoying little vibrations that sneak through gaps. Acoustic caulk around the edges of the boxes helped too, but honestly, the putty pads seemed to do more for me.
It's funny how much trial and error goes into soundproofing—sometimes the simplest tweaks make the biggest difference. Glad to see others figuring this stuff out without dropping tons of cash on specialty products.
"What really helped me was using putty pads behind the electrical boxes."
Interesting, hadn't thought about putty pads before. Did you notice any issues with heat buildup or airflow around the boxes after installing them? I've heard mixed things about sealing electrical boxes too tightly, so I'm curious if that's something you had to consider...
Putty pads are definitely underrated. I've used them quite a bit, especially in garage and basement remodels where noise transfer can be a real headache. Honestly, I've never had any issues with heat buildup or airflow around electrical boxes after installing them. Electrical boxes typically don't generate enough heat to cause concern, unless you're seriously overloading a circuit—which is a whole different problem altogether.
That said, I get why some folks worry about sealing boxes too tightly. I've heard the same concerns, but in practice, it's rarely an issue. The pads are designed specifically for electrical boxes, so they're fire-rated and tested for safety. They're not airtight to the point of causing problems; they just cut down on sound transmission and drafts. If anything, they actually help with energy efficiency by reducing air leaks.
One thing I'd add, though—make sure you're using them correctly. I've seen DIY jobs where people just slap them on without properly sealing around the edges or behind the box. If you leave gaps or don't press them firmly into place, you're not getting the full benefit. And honestly, at that point, you're just wasting money.
Also, if noise is your main concern, don't overlook other simple fixes like rubber isolation mounts or vibration dampeners for the opener itself. I had a client who swore his garage opener was waking up his newborn every night. We put in some isolation mounts and added putty pads behind the boxes on the shared wall—problem solved overnight. He was skeptical at first, but now he's recommending it to everyone he knows.
Bottom line: putty pads are a solid choice and safe to use. Just install them right and pair them with other soundproofing measures if you really want to make a noticeable difference.
I had a similar issue with our garage opener vibrating through the walls. Putty pads helped, but honestly, adding isolation mounts made the biggest difference. Wish I'd tried it sooner—would've saved me a lot of sleepless nights.
