Locked Out Drama—What Would You Do?
I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve dealt with sticky doors in my rentals. Honestly, tightening those hinge screws has saved me more headaches than I can count—funny how something that simple gets overlooked. That said, sanding is the way to go if you see a clear rub mark, but I’d never start shaving wood before double-checking the hinges and even the strike plate alignment. Had a tenant once who tried to “fix” a stuck door with a crowbar... let’s just say it cost more to undo his handiwork than if he’d just called. Sometimes less is more, especially with old doors and shifting frames.
Sometimes less is more, especially with old doors and shifting frames.
Couldn’t agree more with that. I’ve seen folks go straight for the power tools when a door just needed a little hinge tweak. It’s wild how much difference a quarter turn on a screw can make. I’ve even used a playing card as a shim behind a loose hinge in a pinch—worked like a charm. Crowbars, though... yikes. That’s a whole new level of “fixing.”
- Had a similar situation last winter—old farmhouse, door swelled up after a rainstorm.
- Instead of reaching for the drill, I tried a little beeswax on the sticking edge. Worked better than sanding, and didn’t mess with the original wood.
- For shifting frames, I’ve wedged in thin cardboard from a cereal box behind the strike plate. Not glamorous, but it’s invisible and does the trick.
- Power tools are tempting, but I always wonder about the long-term impact—more material gone means less to work with next time something shifts.
- Crowbars make me nervous too... feels like overkill unless you’re demo-ing.
- Anyone else try using reclaimed wood for repairs? Sometimes matching old grain is tricky, but it’s worth it for the look and sustainability.
Less is more, but sometimes “less” just means being creative with what’s on hand.
Title: Locked Out Drama—What Would You Do?
If I’m dealing with a swollen door, first thing I check is where it’s binding. Sometimes just tightening the hinges or swapping in longer screws fixes it. I’ve used reclaimed wood for patching old jambs—matching grain is a pain, but it holds up better than new pine. Power tools are handy, but I only sand if there’s no other option... you can’t put that wood back once it’s gone. Cardboard shims work in a pinch, but I’d rather use a wood shim if I’ve got scraps lying around. Crowbars? Only if I’m replacing the whole frame, otherwise it’s just asking for trouble.
Matching old wood grain is a whole project in itself, right? I’ve spent way too many hours in the basement with a flashlight, just trying to find a scrap that’s even close. Sometimes I think the quirks and mismatches add character, though—my front door’s got three different shades of oak patched in and honestly, it tells a story.
I’m with you on the crowbar—last time I tried to “gently” pry an old frame, I ended up with a pile of splinters and a lot of regret. Learned my lesson there. These old houses don’t forgive brute force.
Curious if you’ve ever tried using beeswax or soap on sticky spots? My neighbor swears by rubbing a candle along the edge where it sticks. I was skeptical, but it actually helped one summer when the humidity made everything swell up like crazy. Not a forever fix, but it got me through until I could do a proper repair.
Also, have you ever had to deal with those ancient mortise locks? Mine jammed last winter and I had to take the whole thing apart on the porch in freezing weather. Took me ages to get it back together—felt like solving a puzzle from 1910. Do you stick with original hardware or swap for modern stuff when things get dicey?
