I hear you on the lingering smells—some oils really do hang around, especially if you’re working in a space without much airflow. But I’d actually push back a bit on the idea that wax is always worse for dust and fur. In my experience, it depends a lot on the type of wax and how it’s applied. A thin layer of hardwax oil, for example, can actually repel dust better than some softer waxes or even certain oils that never fully cure.
About the patchiness with tung oil—uneven absorption is a pain, especially with reclaimed wood that’s seen better days. Sometimes a light sanding or even just a pre-treatment with a natural conditioner helps even things out. I’ve also had luck mixing in a bit of citrus solvent to cut down on both odor and drying time, though I know not everyone loves the smell of oranges either...
Honestly, there’s no perfect finish, but I lean toward hardwax oils for durability and ease of touch-ups. They’re not as sticky as traditional waxes and don’t seem to attract as much pet hair in my place. Just my two cents—curious if anyone else has found something that works better for old wood with lots of character.
I totally get what you mean about hardwax oils not being as sticky as traditional waxes.
That’s been my experience too, especially with an old pine table I redid last year. The dog hair just sits on top instead of getting glued down. I did have to reapply in a few spots after a few months, but the touch-ups were way less hassle than stripping wax. And I hear you on the citrus solvent—my partner hates the smell, but I kind of like it.“A thin layer of hardwax oil, for example, can actually repel dust better than some softer waxes or even certain oils that never fully cure.”
That bit about dog hair just sitting on top—totally rings true. I worked on a 1920s oak floor last winter, and after years of wax build-up, it was a nightmare to keep clean. Every little bit of dust or pet fuzz seemed to get stuck in the finish. Switched over to hardwax oil, and suddenly the broom actually did its job. Didn’t expect that.
“The dog hair just sits on top instead of getting glued down.”
I’ve noticed the same with crumbs in the kitchen. They don’t bond to the floor like they used to. Only thing is, I do miss that buttery glow you get from traditional wax—hardwax oil’s got a more natural vibe, which I like, but sometimes I want that old-school shine. And yeah, the citrus solvent... my kids say it smells like someone peeled a thousand oranges in the house. Not everyone’s cup of tea, but I’ll take it over chemical fumes any day.
That bit about dog hair just sitting on top—totally rings true. I worked on a 1920s oak floor last winter, and after years of wax build-up, it was a nightmare to keep clean.
That “buttery glow” from old-school wax is tough to beat, I’ll give you that. I’ve tried buffing hardwax oil with a white pad to coax out a bit more sheen, but it’s never quite the same. The citrus smell cracks me up—my partner says it’s like living in a marmalade factory for a day. Curious if anyone’s tried layering a thin wax over hardwax oil for extra shine? I’ve heard mixed things about compatibility, but haven’t been brave enough to test it on my own floors.
Wax over hardwax oil always makes me a little nervous, honestly. I get the appeal—nothing beats that soft gleam—but in my experience, mixing systems can backfire. I’ve seen floors where the wax just sat weirdly on top, never really bonded, and then you’re stuck with patchy spots that attract even more dust. Plus, if you ever need to touch up or re-oil, stripping off the wax is a pain.
Hardwax oil on its own can look pretty fantastic if you’re patient with the buffing and let it cure fully. It’s not quite as “buttery” as traditional wax, but it’s way more forgiving for maintenance. I’d rather have a slightly more matte finish that’s easy to spot-fix than risk the hassle of incompatible layers. That said, I know some folks swear by the combo... maybe it depends on the brand or climate? For me, less is more when it comes to floor finishes—especially in busy homes with pets.
