How long do pipes really last under pressure?

Funny how the “quick fixes” from past owners always end up being the longest jobs to sort out.

That’s so true, and honestly, it’s been my biggest headache with this house. Every time I open a wall, it’s like a time capsule of shortcuts. Testing every crimp twice is smart - gives me some peace of mind too. I’m sticking close to 60 psi as well, just feels safer in the long run. Feels good knowing others are in the same boat.

- 100% agree about the “quick fixes” being a nightmare. I swear, my crawlspace is like a museum of questionable decisions.
- Double-checking crimps is a must. I’ve found leaks months later that I thought were fine the first time.
- 60 psi seems like a good sweet spot. I’ve read some folks push it higher, but honestly, why risk it? Less stress on the pipes means less chance of micro-leaks down the road.
- One thing I wonder - have you noticed any difference in longevity between copper and PEX under similar pressure? My old copper lines seem to hold up, but I’m always second-guessing if I should swap more to PEX...

I’ve been wrestling with the same question. My house has a weird mix - original copper in some spots, PEX in others where we had to fix leaks. Honestly, the copper’s older than me and still going strong, but I’ve had a couple pinhole leaks pop up in the last year. PEX is way easier to work with, but I’m always kinda paranoid about the fittings. Haven’t seen any big issues yet, but it’s only been a few years. I keep the pressure at 60 too... feels safer, especially with all these weird connections under the house.

I totally get that “weird mix” feeling - been there myself. Honestly, copper’s legendary for lasting, but once those pinhole leaks start, it’s like a warning shot. PEX is a game changer for DIY fixes, even if the fittings make you nervous. You’re smart keeping pressure at 60; I’ve seen folks crank it up and regret it later.

PEX is way easier to work with, but I’m always kinda paranoid about the fittings.

That’s fair, but most issues I’ve seen with PEX come from rushed installs or cheap connectors. If you did it right, you’re probably in better shape than you think. Sometimes mixing old and new isn’t ideal, but honestly, it’s how most houses evolve. Don’t sweat it too much - sounds like you’re ahead of the curve.

- Gotta push back a bit on the “don’t sweat it” part - mixing copper and PEX isn’t always smooth sailing.
- Dielectric corrosion can sneak up if you’re not careful with the transition fittings.
- I’ve had to redo a section where a previous owner used the wrong brass connector and it started leaking after just a few years.
- Also, older copper can sometimes react weirdly with new water chemistry if you’ve changed filtration or softeners.
- Not saying it’s doomed, but I’d keep an eye on those joints, especially in crawlspaces or behind walls... learned that one the hard way.

That’s a good point about the water chemistry - I swapped out an old water softener last year and noticed some greenish buildup on the copper near the transition. I ended up using a SharkBite fitting, but I’m still a bit paranoid about hidden leaks. Those crawlspace joints are a pain to check, honestly. Anyone else run into weird pressure drops after mixing materials?

I get where you’re coming from - mixing materials always makes me a bit uneasy too, especially when you can’t see every joint. I’ve had some minor pressure drops after swapping fittings, but nothing major. Sometimes it’s just air pockets or a bit of debris from the install. Honestly, as long as you don’t see any signs of leaks or corrosion, you’re probably fine. Those SharkBites are pretty reliable, even if they feel a bit too easy compared to sweating copper. Just keep an eye out for damp spots, but try not to stress too much.

- I hear you on the SharkBites - almost feels like cheating after sweating copper, but they do hold up.
- Mixing materials can be a pain, especially if you’re dealing with older copper and new PEX. Electrolysis is always in the back of my mind, even with dielectric unions.
- I’ve noticed pressure drops too, usually after a big install or when I didn’t flush the lines well enough. Sometimes it’s just a bit of grit stuck in a valve.
- Curious - how old are your pipes? I’ve seen copper last 50+ years if the water’s not too acidic, but PEX is still kind of a wild card for me. Anyone had PEX in for more than a decade without issues?

How Long Do Pipes Really Last Under Pressure?

That’s the thing with these old houses - mine’s pushing 120 years, and I’m still finding original copper tucked behind plaster. Some of it looks pristine, some is green and pitted. I’ve always wondered if the water chemistry changed over the decades or if it’s just luck of the draw. Has anyone actually tested their water for acidity before deciding on replacement? I keep hearing that’s a big factor for copper longevity, but I’ve never done it myself.

On the PEX front, I’m in the same boat - installed some about 8 years ago when we did a kitchen reno, but that’s not really long enough to know how it’ll hold up. The plumber swore by it, but then again, he also said galvanized would “last forever” back in the day... and we all know how that turned out. Anyone ever had issues with rodents chewing through PEX? That’s one thing that makes me nervous, especially after seeing a neighbor patch up a leak thanks to a mouse.

Mixing materials is another headache. I used those dielectric unions between copper and steel in the basement, but I’m never totally convinced they’re doing their job. Is there any way to tell if electrolysis is happening before you see visible corrosion? Or is it just wait-and-see?

Pressure drops are another mystery sometimes. I had one last winter that turned out to be a chunk of solder stuck in an elbow - took forever to track down. Makes me wonder how much debris gets left behind after even a careful install.

Curious if anyone’s actually seen PEX fail from age alone yet, or if it’s always something external like UV or critters. And does anyone trust those push-to-connect fittings long-term? They feel solid now, but will they still be tight in 20 years?

- I’ve always wondered about those push-to-connect fittings too - feels weird to trust something that just snaps on.
- Had a client’s bathroom reno where the plumber swore by them, but I still get nervous thinking about what’s going on behind the walls.
- Anyone found a way to check for slow leaks or pressure loss without tearing open drywall?
- Also, does anyone actually label where they’ve mixed materials? I never remember until I’m knee-deep in a project...

Push-to-connects always make me pause too - just feels odd not to crank down on a fitting, right? I’ve used them a few times in tight spots where sweating copper would’ve been a nightmare, but I still get that nagging “what if” about leaks behind the wall.

For checking leaks without ripping out drywall, here’s what’s worked for me:
1. Shut off all water-using appliances and fixtures.
2. Check your water meter - if it’s spinning or ticking, something’s leaking.
3. Mark the meter reading, wait an hour or two (no water use), then check again. Any change means you’ve got a slow leak somewhere.

If you want to get fancy, there are smart leak detectors now - stick one under the sink or near suspect walls, and they’ll ping your phone if they sense moisture. Not perfect for inside-the-wall stuff, but better than nothing.

About labeling mixed materials...I’m guilty of forgetting too. I started using painter’s tape and a Sharpie to mark where I transition from copper to PEX or whatever else, especially if I know I’ll be back later. It’s saved me some head-scratching more than once.

One thing I’m curious about: has anyone tried those thermal cameras you can rent from hardware stores? Supposedly you can spot cold spots from leaks behind drywall, but I haven’t tested it myself. Wondering if it’s worth the hassle or just another gadget collecting dust.

Also, does anyone else worry about long-term compatibility when mixing materials? I’ve read about corrosion issues with copper and galvanized, but not sure how much of that is old news versus real risk with modern fittings...

- Been there with the push-to-connects - used one behind a clawfoot tub last year because there was just no way I was getting a torch in there. Still check that wall every time I walk by, just in case.
- For leak checks, I’ve had decent luck with the water meter method too. In my place (built 1920s), the old galvanized lines were a nightmare for slow leaks, so I got in the habit of checking monthly.
- Tried a rental thermal camera once when I suspected a pinhole in an upstairs line. It picked up a cold spot, but honestly, it was more helpful for finding drafts than leaks. Not useless, but not magic either.
- Mixing copper and galvanized is where I ran into trouble - had some nasty corrosion at the joints after a few years. Swapped to brass fittings as a buffer and haven’t seen issues since. With copper and PEX, I haven’t noticed any problems, but I still use those transition fittings just to be safe.
- Labeling with tape is underrated. Found a note from myself behind a panel last winter - saved me hours of tracing lines.
- Pipes lasting under pressure? My copper’s pushing 40 years and still going strong, but those old galvanized ones barely made it past 60 before they started weeping. Guess it depends on what you’ve got and how lucky you feel...

Mixing copper and galvanized is where I ran into trouble - had some nasty corrosion at the joints after a few years. Swapped to brass fittings as a buffer and haven’t seen issues since.

That’s been my experience too - galvanized and copper just don’t play nice together. Ran into a 1940s place last year where someone skipped the dielectric unions, and the corrosion was wild. Ended up replacing a good chunk with PEX, but I still get nervous about push-to-connects in spots you can’t easily check. As for pipe lifespan, I’ve seen original copper from the ‘70s still holding up, but those old steel lines rarely make it past 50 without pinholes popping up everywhere. It’s a gamble, really.

I still get nervous about push-to-connects in spots you can’t easily check.

I hear you - those push-to-connects are handy, but I just don’t trust them behind walls. If I can’t see it, I stick with crimped PEX or sweat joints. Old copper does seem to last, but once you start seeing green spots or pinholes, it’s usually time to bite the bullet and swap it out. Galvanized is a whole different headache... every time I open up a wall and see that stuff, I know it’s going to be a bigger job than planned.

Yeah, I get where you’re coming from. Push-to-connects are great for quick fixes, but I just can’t bring myself to trust them in spots I can’t get to later. I’ve seen a couple start to seep after a few years - maybe installer error, maybe just bad luck. Crimped PEX has never let me down, and sweating copper is tried and true if you’ve got the patience. Galvanized, though... every time I see it, I know my day just got longer.

Yeah, galvanized is always a headache - every time I open up a wall and spot it, I know there’s gonna be rust or some weird buildup. I’m with you on push-to-connects being a bit sketchy for anything hidden. They’re fine for a quick fix under a sink, but I’d never trust them behind finished drywall. Crimped PEX seems to be the sweet spot lately - less drama, and it doesn’t mess with the aesthetics if you ever have to open things up again. Copper’s classic, but man, it’s not always worth the hassle unless you’re going for that old-school charm.

Crimped PEX really does hit that sweet spot, especially if you’re trying to keep things green and efficient. I do kinda miss the look of copper, but man, the energy and resources that go into mining and producing it… not ideal. PEX also doesn’t corrode like galvanized or copper, which means less junk leaching into your water over time. I get the hesitation about push-to-connects too - seems like a shortcut, and shortcuts behind walls make me nervous.

I hear you on the copper nostalgia - there’s just something about those old pipes. But honestly, after dealing with pinhole leaks in my 1920s place, I’m all for PEX now. Crimped connections feel way more trustworthy than push-to-connects, especially behind plaster walls. Less stress about future repairs, too.

I get the appeal of PEX - especially when you’ve had to patch up ancient copper more times than you can count. But I’ll admit, there’s a part of me that still leans toward copper, even with its quirks. Maybe it’s just the designer in me, but I love how copper ages. I once worked on a brownstone where the exposed copper pipes became this accidental design feature - warm, a little bit industrial, and honestly kind of beautiful.

That said, I totally get the stress about leaks behind walls. PEX is forgiving, and those long runs make for fewer joints (less risk, in theory). Still, I’ve seen some PEX installs that looked a little... wobbly? Maybe it’s just the way some folks rush through jobs these days. With copper, at least you know it’s not going anywhere if it’s done right.

Guess it comes down to what you value more - peace of mind or a bit of old-school charm. For me, if the pipes are visible or part of the vibe, I’ll always try to keep the copper. Hidden away? Yeah, PEX makes life easier.

How Long Do Pipes Really Last Under Pressure?

Copper definitely has that “timeless” look, especially when it’s exposed. I get the appeal - there’s something about those greenish streaks and the way it catches the light in an old house. But if we’re talking about how long pipes last under pressure, there are a few things I’ve picked up from tearing into walls and crawling under floors over the years.

Here’s how I break it down:

1. **Copper:** If you’ve got good water (not too acidic or hard), copper can easily go 50+ years, sometimes even pushing 70. The catch is, it really depends on the quality of the install and the water chemistry. I’ve seen pinhole leaks in 20-year-old copper where the water was aggressive, and I’ve also pulled out 80-year-old lines that looked almost new inside. Solder joints are usually the weak point - if they’re done right, they’ll outlast most of us, but a cold joint or too much flux can be trouble down the line.

2. **PEX:** Most manufacturers rate PEX for 40-50 years, but it hasn’t been around as long as copper, so we’re all kind of waiting to see if it lives up to that. It handles pressure surges better than copper (it flexes instead of splitting), but UV light is its kryptonite - leave it exposed to sunlight and you’ll have problems fast. The fittings are usually where leaks happen, especially if someone cuts corners or uses cheap crimp rings.

3. **Pressure:** Both materials are rated for typical household pressures (usually up to 80 psi), but if your system spikes above that - say from a faulty pressure regulator - either one can fail early. I always recommend putting in a pressure gauge and checking once in a while. Cheap insurance.

4. **Install Quality:** This is huge. A wobbly PEX job or poorly supported copper will both give you headaches eventually. I always use pipe supports every 32” for PEX and every 6-8’ for copper (closer at turns). And with PEX, making sure there’s no kinking during install is key.

If you’re after peace of mind behind walls, PEX is hard to beat for ease and fewer joints. But for anything visible - or if you just like working with metal - copper’s still got a lot going for it. Personally, I mix and match: PEX in the walls, copper where it shows. Keeps everyone happy... including me when I have to fix something later.

One last thing: whatever you pick, don’t skip on the pressure test before closing up walls. Nothing worse than finding out about a leak after you’ve patched and painted. Learned that one the hard way...