Making trim look pro without hiring out

I totally get what you mean about the painter’s tape—mine always seems to let paint sneak under too, no matter how careful I am. I tried one of those edger tools and it just made a mess, honestly.

The trim in my place is about as straight as a country road, so it was a losing battle from the start.

Caulking before painting is honestly a game changer, especially if your trim and walls are doing their own thing. It’s a bit of a pain, but it hides those weird gaps and makes everything look way cleaner. Just don’t overdo it or you’ll end up with lumpy lines—been there, regretted that. Have you tried using a flexible putty knife to smooth it out? Makes a difference, especially on those “country road” trims.

Never tried the flexible putty knife trick—does it really make that much of a difference? I’ve been using my finger, which is probably why half my caulk lines look like a toddler did them. My house is over a hundred years old, and none of the trim is remotely straight... ever try to caulk a gap that’s almost finger-width in places? Is there a point where you just let the “character” show, or do you keep filling forever?

Title: Making trim look pro without hiring out

Is there a point where you just let the “character” show, or do you keep filling forever?

Honestly, I think there’s a limit to how much caulk can (or should) fix. I get the urge to chase every gap, but with old houses, sometimes you’re fighting a losing battle. I’ve run into those finger-width gaps too—usually after pulling off some ancient quarter round and realizing nothing is square.

The putty knife trick does help, but it’s not magic. For really wide gaps, caulk alone isn’t going to cut it. It’ll just sag or crack over time. What’s worked for me is a combo approach:

1. For anything bigger than about 1/4", I jam in some backer rod (foam rope from the hardware store). It fills space and gives the caulk something to grip.
2. Then I use painter’s tape along both sides of the gap—keeps things tidy.
3. Caulk goes on next, and here’s where the flexible putty knife shines. Instead of using your finger (which tends to dig out too much or leave it uneven), you can feather it out flat and smooth.
4. Peel the tape before the caulk skins over.

But honestly? Sometimes I just let the weirdness show, especially in spots nobody looks at closely. There’s a charm to old woodwork that isn’t perfectly straight. If you try to make everything look brand new, it can end up looking fake or overworked.

One thing I’d push back on: using your finger isn’t always bad—it works for small gaps and tight corners where tools don’t fit well. But for long runs or big gaps, yeah...the knife is worth trying.

At the end of the day, if your trim looks clean from five feet away and doesn’t draw attention to itself, that’s usually good enough for me.

Couldn’t agree more about not chasing every imperfection—old trim’s got its quirks, and sometimes it’s just not worth the fight. One thing I’d add: if you’re aiming for eco-friendly, look for low-VOC caulks and fillers. They’re better for indoor air, especially if you’re sealing a lot of gaps. Also, sanding between coats (even on caulked spots) can help blend things in without overworking it. At the end of the day, if it looks good from a few steps back and doesn’t waste a ton of materials, that’s a win in my book.