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Making trim look pro without hiring out

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jgonzalez81
Posts: 16
(@jgonzalez81)
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I’ve actually had mixed results with that delicate surface tape. Sometimes it’s a lifesaver on fresh paint, but honestly, I’ve seen it still pull up the finish if the paint’s not fully cured—even after waiting the “recommended” time. I think a lot of it comes down to the paint brand and how humid your space is. I’ve had better luck just running a sharp blade along the tape edge before peeling, even with regular blue tape. It’s not always about the tape—sometimes it’s just the paint being stubborn.


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Posts: 11
(@margarett80)
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That’s been my experience too—tape can be unpredictable, especially if the paint’s not fully set. I’ve noticed certain paints seem to stay tacky longer, even if the label says they’re ready. Sometimes I’ll skip tape altogether and use a good angled brush with a steady hand. It takes practice, but you get those crisp lines without risking the finish. If I do use tape, I always score it with a blade like you mentioned... makes a huge difference. Humidity definitely throws a wrench in things, especially in older houses where airflow isn’t great.


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Posts: 15
(@astronomy_jack)
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Tape’s more trouble than it’s worth in these old houses, if you ask me. Half the time, the trim isn’t even straight, so tape just highlights every wobble and gap. I’ve had better luck with a sharp angled brush and a slow hand—takes longer, but you actually get to know the quirks of your woodwork. And yeah, humidity is a nightmare. I’ve had paint stay tacky for days in the summer, even with windows open and fans running.

One thing I’ll add: don’t trust those “quick dry” claims on paint cans, especially with oil-based stuff. Learned that the hard way when tape pulled up half my fresh finish. If you’re dealing with old trim that’s seen a few lifetimes of paint, sometimes a light sanding between coats helps too. Not glamorous, but it keeps things smooth and less likely to peel or chip later.

Honestly, patience is the real trick—no shortcut beats just letting things cure properly.


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davids87
Posts: 9
(@davids87)
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- Couldn’t agree more about the tape—on old, uneven trim, it just seems to make a mess.
- Sharp angled brush is my go-to too, especially for those wavy corners.
- Humidity’s brutal. I once had paint take nearly a week to fully cure in July... thought I’d ruined the project.
- Light sanding between coats is a game changer for sure, even if it’s tedious.

Ever tried any of those paint conditioners like Floetrol? I’ve heard they help with brush marks and extend drying time, but never tested them myself. Wondering if they’re worth it on tricky old trim.


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Posts: 18
(@andrew_anderson)
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Floetrol’s actually been a lifesaver for me on some of the old oak trim in my place. It really does help level out those brush marks, especially when the wood grain’s all over the place and you’re dealing with weird humidity. Only thing is, it can make drying times even longer—kind of a double-edged sword if you’re working in a sticky summer. Still, I’d rather wait than end up with visible streaks. Just don’t overdo it or the paint gets too thin.


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