I ran into the same flickering issue with dimmers and LEDs—turns out not all “dimmable” bulbs actually play nice with every switch. I’ve started sticking to basic on/off for most kitchen jobs. Less hassle, fewer callbacks. Rechargeable under-cabinet lights are a solid workaround, especially when you’re dealing with older wiring or tight budgets. I do miss the look of hardwired sometimes, but buyers rarely notice the difference unless you point it out.
If You Had to Redo Your Kitchen Lights, What Would You Pick?
Rechargeable under-cabinet lights are a solid workaround, especially when you’re dealing with older wiring or tight budgets.
I hear you on the old wiring—my kitchen still has knob-and-tube in some spots, so rewiring for hardwired LEDs would be a whole can of worms (and dust). I tried those stick-on rechargeable lights too, and honestly, they’re way better than I expected. I just have to remember to charge them, which is sometimes a gamble if I’m mid-cooking and they die on me. Anyone else ever end up finishing dinner prep by phone flashlight?
I do kind of miss the “real” look of hardwired under-cabinet lights, though. There’s something about that clean line of light that makes the old cabinets look fancier than they really are. But I guess if buyers don’t notice, maybe it’s just me being picky?
Has anyone found a dimmer that actually works with LED bulbs in an old house? I’ve tried two brands and both flickered like crazy. Maybe it’s just not worth the trouble unless you’re rewiring everything...
- Been there with the phone flashlight—nothing like chopping onions in the dark to make you question your life choices.
- I’ve tried a few dimmers with LEDs in my rentals, and yeah, the flicker is real. Lutron Maestro’s been the least headache for me, but even then, it depends on the bulb brand. Some combos just refuse to play nice.
- If you’re not rewiring, honestly, I’d stick with plug-in or battery options. Less drama, less dust, and you don’t have to explain to buyers why half the switches don’t work right.
- For that “real” under-cabinet look, I’ve faked it with those LED tape strips (the plug-in kind). Stick ‘em up, hide the cord behind a toaster or something, and suddenly it looks like you spent way more than you did.
- Buyers rarely notice unless they’re super picky or it’s a high-end flip. Most just want to see a bright kitchen that doesn’t feel like a cave.
If you ever do rewire, get ready for a mess... but at least you’ll never have to charge lights again.
If I had to do it all over again, I’d go step-by-step: first, swap out every bulb for the same brand and color temp—seriously, nothing messes up a kitchen vibe faster than mismatched lighting. Next, I’d use those plug-in LED strips under cabinets. They’re not perfect, but they’re cheap and you can hide the cords pretty well. Hardwiring is a pain unless you’re already gutting the place, and buyers rarely care unless the lights flicker like a haunted house. My one regret? Not testing dimmers with the actual bulbs before installing. Learned that lesson the hard way.
You nailed it with the color temp thing—nothing throws off a kitchen’s look faster than a patchwork of warm and cool bulbs. I’ve made that mistake before, thinking “eh, close enough,” and then regretted it every time I turned on the lights. Matching brands is smart too; even bulbs labeled the same can look totally different.
Plug-in LED strips are a solid call for most folks. I’ve hardwired under-cabinet lights in one kitchen and honestly, unless you’re already tearing things apart, it’s just not worth the hassle. The plug-ins do the job, especially if you take a little time to route cords behind trim or cabinets.
Testing dimmers with your actual bulbs is one of those lessons you only need to learn once. I had some “dimmable” LEDs that buzzed like crazy or wouldn’t dim at all—super annoying after everything’s installed. Your step-by-step approach makes a lot of sense, and honestly, most buyers won’t notice the difference unless something’s really off. Sometimes good enough really is good enough.
