Getting Smooth Drywall Joints Without Losing Your Mind
Mesh is like that friend who promises to help you move and then ghosts halfway through... especially on old plaster.
Funny, I’ve actually had better luck with mesh on my 1920s walls than paper, at least for hairline cracks. Maybe it’s just the way my house settles, but paper tape always seems to bubble or peel on me. No-coat corners though... mixed feelings. They look sharp, but I swear they highlight every uneven lath behind the drywall. Anyone else feel like sometimes the “fix” just makes the old quirks more obvious?
Getting Smooth Drywall Joints Without Losing Your Mind
Mesh tape’s definitely got its moments, especially in those old houses where the walls move more than the stock market. I’ve run into the same issue with paper tape bubbling—usually when I get impatient and don’t lay enough mud underneath, or if there’s a bit of dust left behind. That said, I still lean toward paper for bigger joints, but for hairline cracks on old plaster, mesh can be a lifesaver. It’s like triage for walls that have seen a century of settling.
No-coat corners are a double-edged sword in my experience. They’re crisp, sure, but if your framing’s even a hair off (and let’s be honest, in these old places it usually is), those corners end up looking like you’re trying to highlight every ripple and dip in the wall. Sometimes I wonder if it’s better to just embrace the quirks instead of fighting them—character, right?
One trick I’ve picked up is to skim a wider area than you think you need. Makes for more sanding, but it hides the unevenness better. Not fun, but worth it if you want to avoid that “patchwork” look. And for what it’s worth, sometimes I just accept that perfection isn’t happening in a house that’s survived three generations and who knows how many renovations.
At the end of the day, I try to remind myself: smooth enough is sometimes good enough... especially if you’re not planning on staring at the corners every day.
Totally get what you mean about mesh tape being a lifesaver for those tiny cracks. I’ve had my fair share of “why is this wall moving again?” moments in old houses, and mesh has bailed me out more than once. Still, I’m with you—paper tape just seems to disappear better on the big seams if you take your time with the mud. The bubbling is a pain, though. I’ve learned (the hard way) that if I don’t vacuum every speck of dust off before taping, I’m basically asking for trouble.
No-coat corners are a weird one. They look great in theory, but I swear, unless your framing is laser-straight, they just highlight every little wobble. I tried them in my last place and ended up sanding so much I thought I’d hit daylight. Sometimes I think the old-school metal corners are more forgiving, even if they’re not as crisp.
Wider skimming is definitely the move. I used to try and keep things tight, but then you get that obvious “band-aid” effect. Now I just accept that I’ll be sanding for days, but at least the wall looks like it was always that way. And honestly, after a coat of paint and some furniture in front of it, who’s really noticing those minor dips?
Perfection’s overrated in these old houses anyway. I’ve started calling the quirks “historic charm” whenever someone points them out. Makes me feel better about my less-than-perfect joints.
That “historic charm” line is spot on—I’ve used it myself more than once when the mud just wouldn’t cooperate. I’ll say, I’ve tried to get fancy with those no-coat corners too, and unless you’re working in a brand new build, they really do show every little hiccup in the framing. I still lean toward paper tape for the main seams, but I’ll admit, mesh is a lifesaver in spots where movement is just part of the house’s personality. At the end of the day, if the paint holds and nothing cracks in the first year, I call it a win.
At the end of the day, if the paint holds and nothing cracks in the first year, I call it a win.
Honestly, that’s the real test. I’m with you on paper tape for main seams—it just disappears better under skim coats. Mesh is handy, but I’ve seen it bubble if you’re not careful with the first coat. No-coat corners look great on new framing, but in these old houses, you’re basically highlighting every little wobble. My trick: feather out wider than you think you need to. It’s more sanding, but hides a multitude of sins.
