I've used both wet sanding and the vac attachment method quite a bit, and honestly, each has its place depending on the job. A few thoughts based on my own experience:
- Wet sanding definitely cuts down dust, but like you mentioned, it can be a huge hassle. I remember doing a remodel in a client's finished basement that had brand new carpet installed. Wet sanding was pretty much my only option to avoid ruining their floors. But man, I spent half my day rinsing sponges and changing buckets of water. Plus, like you said, it's easy to accidentally remove too much compound if you're not careful—especially in corners or around taped seams.
- The drywall sanding attachment hooked to a shop vac has been my go-to for most jobs lately. It isn't perfect (still leaves some dust behind), but the reduction in cleanup time is significant enough to make it worthwhile. I've found that pairing it with a HEPA filter on the shop vac helps even more with dust control.
- One thing worth mentioning: technique matters a lot with the vacuum attachment. If you press too hard or move too slowly, you can still gouge or oversand the joint compound. Took me a couple tries before I got comfortable using it without leaving marks or uneven spots.
- Also, not all attachments are created equal—some cheaper ones don't seal well against the wall surface and end up letting more dust escape than they collect. It's worth investing in one that's decent quality.
At the end of the day, if I'm working in an unfinished space or somewhere I can easily tarp off furniture and flooring, I'll always pick dry sanding with the vac attachment over wet sanding just for convenience alone. But yeah...if you're stuck working around finished surfaces or sensitive areas, wet sanding might still be your safest bet despite the extra hassle involved.
I’ve been in the same boat—tried both wet sanding and the vac attachment, and honestly, I lean toward the vac setup for most jobs too. Wet sanding is just a pain when you’re dealing with more than a couple seams. The constant rinsing and wringing out sponges gets old fast, especially if you’re doing ceilings or up on a ladder. I’ve also had issues with water streaks if I wasn’t careful about how wet the sponge was.
One thing that’s helped me with the vac method is using mesh sanding screens instead of regular sandpaper. They seem to clog less, which makes it easier to keep a consistent finish. That said, like you mentioned, technique really matters—if you’re not careful, it’s easy to dig in too deep or leave swirl marks. I usually do a quick pass with a bright work light at an angle to spot any ridges or low spots before calling it done.
On attachments, totally agree: some of those bargain-bin kits are basically useless. I wasted money on one that didn’t seal worth a damn—dust everywhere, plus the hose kept popping off. Ended up getting one of those swiveling heads that actually hugs the wall and it made a big difference, especially on ceilings.
If you’re after super-smooth results without much headache, I’d say don’t skimp on your joint compound either. The lightweight stuff sands easier but can gouge faster if you’re not gentle. For final coats, I sometimes thin it out just a touch with water—goes on smoother and needs less sanding overall.
At the end of the day, I think it’s all about picking your battles. If dust isn’t a huge concern, dry sand with a good vac setup is hard to beat for speed and finish quality. But yeah…if there’s carpet or finished floors around, wet sanding is sometimes just the lesser evil, even if it’s tedious as hell.
If you’re after super-smooth results without much headache, I’d say don’t skimp on your joint compound either.
Man, I feel you on the bargain-bin vac kits—been there, done that, dust everywhere. I totally agree with you about picking your battles. Sometimes you just have to accept a little mess for your sanity’s sake. I’ve found that “thinning out the final coat” trick you mentioned makes a world of difference, especially in these old houses where nothing is ever square. It’s wild how much smoother things go when you don’t fight the quirks and just work with what you’ve got. Hang in there—those smooth joints are worth it in the end.
I hear you about old houses and their “unique” angles—mine’s got walls that bow out like they’re trying to escape. I’ve tried mesh tape and paper tape, but honestly, sometimes I can’t tell which is actually better for those weird corners. Anyone else have a preference or is it just whatever’s on hand?
Title: Getting smooth drywall joints without losing your mind
mine’s got walls that bow out like they’re trying to escape
- Been there. My dining room looks like it’s bracing for a tornado.
- Mesh tape is my go-to for weird angles—sticks better when the wall’s doing its own thing.
- Paper tape seems to crack more if the joint isn’t perfect (which, let’s be honest, it never is in these houses).
- I’ve started using setting-type compound with mesh for corners that look like they were drawn by a toddler. Not perfect, but at least it doesn’t fall apart.
- Honestly, sometimes I just slap on whatever’s left in the toolbox and hope the paint hides my sins.