I totally get what you mean—sometimes it feels like you’re uncovering a mystery behind those walls. If the old material’s in good shape, I’ll try to salvage trim or unique woodwork, but with weird stud spacing, it’s usually easier (and safer) to just start over. It’s wild how much extra work shortcuts create down the line... I wish more folks thought about future projects when they build.
I get wanting to start over, but sometimes I’ll work with the weird stud spacing if it means keeping some of that original character. It’s a pain, yeah, but buyers love those little quirks. Not always the most efficient, but it can pay off.
Stud spacing quirks can definitely throw you off, especially when you’re trying to get load distribution right. Here’s how I usually tackle it:
First, I’ll map out every stud with a stud finder and tape measure—sometimes they’re 14”, sometimes 20”, sometimes who-knows-what. If you’re dealing with oddball spacing, the key is tracing the load path. I try to figure out where the weight is coming from (roof, upper floors, whatever) and make sure it’s landing on something solid. If a load-bearing wall has funky spacing, I’ll add blocking or sister up studs to beef up the support without totally gutting the wall.
I totally get wanting to keep that original look, but if you’re running into real structural weirdness, sometimes it’s worth biting the bullet and reframing sections. But yeah, if it’s just cosmetic or minor, buyers do seem to love those “old house” quirks... even if it means I’m cursing under my breath while hanging drywall. Just don’t skimp on the structural stuff—quirky is fine until it starts to sag.
Every time I open up a wall in this place, I feel like I’m on some weird home improvement game show—“Guess That Stud Spacing!” Seriously, I’ve got everything from 12” to 22”, and sometimes a stud just... disappears. I totally get what you mean about tracing the load path, but honestly, half the time I’m just hoping nothing’s sagging when I’m done.
“if you’re running into real structural weirdness, sometimes it’s worth biting the bullet and reframing sections.”
That’s the part that always makes me sweat, because reframing = $$$, and my wallet’s already crying. I usually try to get away with blocking and sistering like you said, but I always wonder if I’m overthinking it or not doing enough. The quirks are fun until you’re trying to hang shelves and the drill hits nothing but air.
Anyone else just cross their fingers and hope for the best? Or is that just my “budget-friendly” approach...
Yeah, I’ve definitely played the “where’d the stud go?” game more times than I care to admit. Last year I tried to hang a heavy shelf and ended up with three extra holes in the drywall before I hit anything solid. I usually just add blocking where I can reach and call it good—no way I’m reframing unless something’s actually moving or cracking. Sometimes you just gotta trust your gut and hope the house gods are on your side.
