Getting smooth drywall joints without losing your mind

I've used both wet sanding and the vac attachment method quite a bit, and honestly, each has its place depending on the job. A few thoughts based on my own experience:

- Wet sanding definitely cuts down dust, but like you mentioned, it can be a huge hassle. I remember doing a remodel in a client's finished basement that had brand new carpet installed. Wet sanding was pretty much my only option to avoid ruining their floors. But man, I spent half my day rinsing sponges and changing buckets of water. Plus, like you said, it's easy to accidentally remove too much compound if you're not careful - especially in corners or around taped seams.

- The drywall sanding attachment hooked to a shop vac has been my go-to for most jobs lately. It isn't perfect (still leaves some dust behind), but the reduction in cleanup time is significant enough to make it worthwhile. I've found that pairing it with a HEPA filter on the shop vac helps even more with dust control.

- One thing worth mentioning: technique matters a lot with the vacuum attachment. If you press too hard or move too slowly, you can still gouge or oversand the joint compound. Took me a couple tries before I got comfortable using it without leaving marks or uneven spots.

- Also, not all attachments are created equal - some cheaper ones don't seal well against the wall surface and end up letting more dust escape than they collect. It's worth investing in one that's decent quality.

At the end of the day, if I'm working in an unfinished space or somewhere I can easily tarp off furniture and flooring, I'll always pick dry sanding with the vac attachment over wet sanding just for convenience alone. But yeah...if you're stuck working around finished surfaces or sensitive areas, wet sanding might still be your safest bet despite the extra hassle involved.

I’ve been in the same boat - tried both wet sanding and the vac attachment, and honestly, I lean toward the vac setup for most jobs too. Wet sanding is just a pain when you’re dealing with more than a couple seams. The constant rinsing and wringing out sponges gets old fast, especially if you’re doing ceilings or up on a ladder. I’ve also had issues with water streaks if I wasn’t careful about how wet the sponge was.

One thing that’s helped me with the vac method is using mesh sanding screens instead of regular sandpaper. They seem to clog less, which makes it easier to keep a consistent finish. That said, like you mentioned, technique really matters - if you’re not careful, it’s easy to dig in too deep or leave swirl marks. I usually do a quick pass with a bright work light at an angle to spot any ridges or low spots before calling it done.

On attachments, totally agree: some of those bargain-bin kits are basically useless. I wasted money on one that didn’t seal worth a damn - dust everywhere, plus the hose kept popping off. Ended up getting one of those swiveling heads that actually hugs the wall and it made a big difference, especially on ceilings.

If you’re after super-smooth results without much headache, I’d say don’t skimp on your joint compound either. The lightweight stuff sands easier but can gouge faster if you’re not gentle. For final coats, I sometimes thin it out just a touch with water - goes on smoother and needs less sanding overall.

At the end of the day, I think it’s all about picking your battles. If dust isn’t a huge concern, dry sand with a good vac setup is hard to beat for speed and finish quality. But yeah…if there’s carpet or finished floors around, wet sanding is sometimes just the lesser evil, even if it’s tedious as hell.

If you’re after super-smooth results without much headache, I’d say don’t skimp on your joint compound either.

Man, I feel you on the bargain-bin vac kits - been there, done that, dust everywhere. I totally agree with you about picking your battles. Sometimes you just have to accept a little mess for your sanity’s sake. I’ve found that “thinning out the final coat” trick you mentioned makes a world of difference, especially in these old houses where nothing is ever square. It’s wild how much smoother things go when you don’t fight the quirks and just work with what you’ve got. Hang in there - those smooth joints are worth it in the end.

I hear you about old houses and their “unique” angles - mine’s got walls that bow out like they’re trying to escape. I’ve tried mesh tape and paper tape, but honestly, sometimes I can’t tell which is actually better for those weird corners. Anyone else have a preference or is it just whatever’s on hand?

Title: Getting smooth drywall joints without losing your mind

mine’s got walls that bow out like they’re trying to escape

- Been there. My dining room looks like it’s bracing for a tornado.
- Mesh tape is my go-to for weird angles - sticks better when the wall’s doing its own thing.
- Paper tape seems to crack more if the joint isn’t perfect (which, let’s be honest, it never is in these houses).
- I’ve started using setting-type compound with mesh for corners that look like they were drawn by a toddler. Not perfect, but at least it doesn’t fall apart.
- Honestly, sometimes I just slap on whatever’s left in the toolbox and hope the paint hides my sins.

Mesh tape’s been a lifesaver for me too, especially in this 1940s place where nothing is square and the studs seem to have their own agenda. I tried paper tape for a while - figured it was more “traditional” - but like you said, one little dip or bow and suddenly there’s a hairline crack staring at me every time the light hits just right. Mesh seems to flex with the wall a bit more, which is nice when you’re dealing with old plaster that’s seen better days.

I’ve started using joint compound with recycled content, mostly because I’m trying to keep things as low-impact as possible. It’s not wildly different from the regular stuff, but it does seem to sand down smoother, at least in my experience. Still makes a mess though... I swear, no matter how careful I am, there’s always dust in places I didn’t even know existed.

Corners are my nemesis. I’ve tried those pre-formed metal corner beads - mixed results. Sometimes they help hide the worst of the wonkiness, sometimes they just highlight how far off everything is. Anyone ever try those flexible paper-faced beads? I’ve heard they’re good for odd angles but haven’t worked up the nerve (or patience) yet.

Curious if anyone’s found a decent eco-friendly primer that actually hides all the patchwork without needing five coats? I’ve had mixed luck with some of the “green” brands - either they smell weird or don’t cover much. Would love to hear if someone’s cracked that code.

Corners are where drywallers go to question their life choices, I swear. Those flexible paper-faced beads are actually a game-changer for weird angles - takes a bit of patience (and a steady hand), but they blend in way better than metal, especially in these old houses where nothing’s at 90 degrees. As for eco-friendly primers, I’ve tried a couple - Benjamin Moore’s Natura was decent, but coverage still wasn’t perfect. If you ever find one that hides patches in less than three coats, let me know... I’ll buy stock in the company.

Yeah, corners are brutal - old houses especially. Those paper-faced beads save my sanity, but I still end up sanding more than I want. On primers, Natura’s okay, but I’ve had slightly better luck with ECOS. Still not miracle coverage... maybe someday.

Those paper-faced beads save my sanity, but I still end up sanding more than I want.

Yeah, those beads are a lifesaver until you hit that one spot that just won’t feather out. I’ve tried ECOS too - coverage is decent, but I still find myself doing two coats more often than not. Honestly, I’ve started using a damp sponge for sanding corners. Less dust, less cursing. Still not perfect, but my lungs thank me.

I hear you on the sanding - sometimes it feels like no matter how careful I am with the mud, there’s always that one stubborn ridge. I’ve actually started using lightweight setting compound for the final coat, and it’s made a difference. It feathers out smoother and sands easier, so I’m not stuck in dust hell for hours. The damp sponge trick is gold for corners, though. My only gripe is it can leave things a bit too soft if I’m not careful, but hey, better than hacking up drywall dust for days.

Yeah, I’ve noticed the lightweight stuff is a game changer for sanding, but I get what you mean about it feeling a bit too soft sometimes. I’ve started mixing in a touch of regular compound for the last swipe - seems to give it just enough bite without making sanding a nightmare. And honestly, anything that keeps the dust down is worth a little experimenting. The sponge trick’s saved my lungs more than once... though my patience, not so much.

Mixing compounds is a smart move - never thought of that. I’ve tried just sticking with lightweight, but yeah, sometimes it’s almost too easy to dent. The sponge trick is a lifesaver for dust, though I agree, it’s not exactly quick... Worth it for the cleanup savings, though.

Mixing compounds seems like the way to go, but I’m still trying to figure out the right ratio. Do you just eyeball it, or is there a method? I’ve only used lightweight so far and yeah, it’s super easy to sand, but I’ve noticed those dents too - especially if I’m not careful with the knife. The sponge thing is great for dust, but I always end up with streaks if I’m not patient. Is there a trick to getting it smooth without over-wetting the joint?

- I usually go for a 50/50 mix of lightweight and all-purpose, but honestly, I don’t measure - just add a bit at a time till it feels like creamy peanut butter.
- For the sponge, less is more. Wring it out so it’s just damp, not dripping. Quick, light passes work better than scrubbing.
- If you’re getting dents, try a wider knife and don’t press too hard. Sometimes I’ll do a super thin skim coat at the end just to even things out.
- Patience is key, but I get it - sometimes you just want to get it done. I’ve rushed and ended up with streaks too... sanding between coats helps a ton.

- For the sponge, less is more.

Honestly, you nailed it with “just add a bit at a time till it feels like creamy peanut butter.” That’s exactly how I explain it to folks on site. I do lean toward a slightly wetter mix for the final skim - it seems to feather out those edges easier, especially if the room’s a bit dry.

One thing I’ve run into: sometimes even with a wide knife, I’ll get chatter marks if the mud’s a touch too thick or the knife edge isn’t clean. I keep a damp rag handy to wipe the blade every couple passes. Anyone else notice that helps, or do you just sand out those lines later?

Yeah, wiping the blade makes a big difference for me too. I’ve tried just sanding out the chatter, but it’s way more work in the end. Sometimes I’ll even swap knives if one’s picking up too much gunk. That little bit of extra effort up front saves a ton of sanding later.

Funny you mention swapping knives - I’ve actually done the same thing, but usually because I bought a cheap set and they’re all a bit wonky. I used to think I could just sand away any mistakes, but after one weekend of endless dust and sore arms, I started keeping an old rag handy to wipe down my blade every few passes. It’s such a simple thing, but it really does keep the joints smoother. Those little shortcuts end up saving way more time (and money) than you’d think.

That rag trick is a lifesaver, honestly. I used to think sanding was the answer to everything, but after my third round of cleaning up drywall dust from every crevice in the house, I realized prevention is way better than cure. Funny how the simplest habits - like wiping the blade - make the biggest difference. You’re not alone in the cheap knife struggle, either... I swear some of mine are more banana-shaped than straight.

You’re speaking my language with the banana-shaped knives. I swear, half the time I’m fighting the tool more than the wall. I’ve got one that’s so warped, it’s basically a spatula at this point - great for pancakes, not so much for feathering mud.

And yes, the rag trick is criminally underrated. People spend a fortune on sanding blocks and fancy dust extractors, but a simple wipe between passes saves hours (and your sanity). I used to think more sanding meant a better finish, but honestly, it just meant more dust in my coffee and a sore shoulder. Prevention really is the name of the game.

I will say, though, sometimes you just have to surrender to the chaos and accept that “perfectly smooth” is a myth unless you’re working in a vacuum. At a certain point, I just call it “character” and move on.

Couldn’t agree more about the “character” approach. I’ve spent way too many hours chasing invisible seams in 100-year-old plaster, only to realize the walls themselves are waving at me. At some point, you just have to accept that a little imperfection is part of the charm - especially in older homes. The rag trick is gold, though. I wish I’d learned that before sanding my fingerprints off. Honestly, half the time, I think the light in the room matters more than the finish itself... as long as it looks good at a glance, I call it a win.